travel blog

26 August–Sunday 

From Bismarck we went north to the Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center near Washburn ND.  You think you’re going to see the same old thing but no!, they have all been impressive with various themes and displays.  This was no different.  The center is loaded with artifacts and replicas of equipment used by the expedition.  It included a buffalo hide that I tried on (heavy, heavy but soft and pliant), a baby carrier to sling over your back (really heavy and artfully decorated) and well as a replica of the blacksmith’s shop.  Three blacksmiths were part of the expedition and plied their arts in shelter building (hinges, latches), tool making (exchanged with indians for food and other goods) and general equipment repair. 

Of special interest was an extensive collection of original lithographs by Karl Bodner who lived near and with the Mandan and other tribes 30 years after Lewis and Clark visited the area.  They show many of the important indian chiefs, indian life at the time, and the landscapes of the Missouri.  Donated by a relative, they are a rich and valuable addition to the Center.  In 1837 a widespread smallpox epidemic decimated indian populations across the plains.  Up to 80% of many indians died in most communities.  As a result, the Mandan, Hidatsa and Arikara tribes that lived as a farmers (women) and hunters (men) joined together in order to survive.  At the time of Lewis and Clark bison freely roamed along the hills adjacent to the Missouri.  By 1850, most had been killed by white men for fur and horns.  Thus, between smallpox and the loss of bison, much of the indian culture and way of life changed drastically.  Just north of the L&C Center is a reconstruction of Fort Mandan where the expedition spent the winter.  Temperatures dropped below -40F!!  The fort wasn’t completed until Christmas day 1804.  The reconstruction includes refurbished barracks, storage rooms, the blacksmith shop and other stuff.  Very impressive.

From Washburn we crossed the river west and went north to the western end of Lake Sakakawea (notice the updated spelling now used).  We stopped at the Knife River Indian Villages National Historical Site which featured an full-sized reproduction of an earth lodge, a large domed structure built for summer use by plaines indians.  It housed up to 10-12 people, old and young, and included a small space for horses as they were too valuable to leave outside.  The earth lodges were built along the bluffs of the river.  Smaller winter lodges were built in protected areas along the riverbanks.  Tepees were used on hunting trips.  Women built the lodges, farmed (corn, squash) and went on hunts to tan the hides and prepare the meat.  Men hunted and protected the villages.

As we travelled from the area of earth lodges north, there we stunning vistas of high rolling hills.  Suddenly, over one crest we came across the northern part of the badlands.  WOW.  Lots of grazing cattle and horses, less farming due to the sharp, rocky environment.

When we reached New Town to cross the river, what we found was a bridge over a huge lake.  Lake Sakakawea floods the Missouri River trench for 180 miles.  Thus, much of the historical evidence of indian life south of Garrison dam is lost.  We continued north of Lake Sakakawea to Lewis and Clark State Park (this time the ND one).  One of the nicest camping areas so far, the marina has been closed for some time due to lack of water.  We decided to camp 2 nights, go into Williston and do some laundry and just veg and enjoy our surroundings.

27 August–Monday

Did laundry in Willston ND.  The sun broke through and the temperature jumped 10 degrees.  Tom unloaded his Vesta-like bike and went for a ride.  Came back, got his camera and left.  Returned with a picture of a rattlesnake sunning itself on the road!!  No barefoot hiking in this area!

Thanks to Belinda and the 10 am delivery by Fed Ex, we hooked up the new truck and were on the road by noon.  Paralleling the Missouri River and/or lakes created by dams are two roads that we have been using extensively from Nebraska/Iowa, through South Dakota and North Dakota.  The roads, 1804 to the east and 1806 to the west of the river, indicate the years outward bound and return of Lewis & Clark.  All along the vistas are spectacular.  Rolling hills to flat plains of wheat (large golden areas newly harvested with huge bales lying across the landscape), sunflowers, hay from white clover, grazing of bison, angus and other breeds of cattle, and horses.  Today we primarily went north from Pierre to I94, then west to Bismarck, another long haul through the plaines–never tiring of the land around us, with homesteads and small towns widely scattered.

By the time we got to Bismarck campgrounds were full.  We had hoped to camp at Fort Abraham Lincoln State Park which features Mandan lodges and culture.  Oh well, we hit the last summer day before school starts so we boondocked in Bismarck at a Wal Mart/Sam’s Club and enjoyed a little shopping for supplies.

Shortly after leaving Ft. Thompson, we passed through Lower Brule (a tiny, tiny town within a fairly large Indian reservation of Teton Sioux who prefer to be known as Brule), missed a turn and ended up in the middle of a large penisula in the Missouri.  Tom got out his GPS which located us in the middle of essentially nowhere.  In order to turn around, I had to back off of the dirt road we were on to the paved road behind us, about a 1/4 of a mile.  The track looked like a drunken sailer was driving.  As we got on the correct road in Lower Brule, we began to climb some pretty steep hills.  The Navigator let out a “poof” which consisted of a not-so-good sound and a little white cloud.  As we drove toward Pierre, the second smallest state capital, I began to formulate a plan.  I discussed my plan with Tom at Lily Park just before we got to Pierre (pronounced pier).  We passed through Pierre noting several car dealerships and set up at Farm Island State Recreation Area, just south of Pierre.  The campsite was really nice.  But the Navigator was too sick to go farther.  So…..I bought a 3/4 ton Chevy Silverado on the 24th.  Had it fixed up with running boards so I can get into it and a cover for the truck bed.  Called Belinda and asked her to find my car title (not a easy task as it turned out) and overnight FedEx it to the dealership.  She did, the truck was ready on time.  The title arrived on time and off we went on Saturday!!

Tom was very helpful at the dealership giving advice about the differences in truck types as related to pulling a camper.  Friday I dropped Tom at the local library for internet fun and games while I spent the day putting the finishing touches on the deal.  The dealership gave us two $25 gift certificate and we ate very well at the Cattleman’s Club (not related to the Colorado club of the same name). 

PS The drive from Ft. Thompson to Pierre was really beautiful. 

The object was to make this day a travel day.  And we did.  Good thing too, ’cause it rained much of the day.  From Ponca State Park we went west to Yankton and crossed into South Dakota.  It was POURING.  As we needed gas, Tom pulled into a gas station with an overhang.  Only the overhang covered the first and third pumps and I stopped behind Tom at the second pump.  I didn’t dry off until after noon!  Luckily it was warm–and really rather funny.

The area south of Yankton is where Yankton Sioux met in Council with the expedition.  One of purposes of the expedition was to hold diplomatic councils with the various tribes of indians to try and unite them under the leadership of the American President.

We visited the Akta Lakota Museum which is located on the campus of the St. Joseph Indian School in Chamberlain SD.  The craftmanship indicated in the exhibits were very impressive.  And they had a little shop with native goods for sale.

We pushed pretty hard and ended up in the middle of the Missouri River at a camping area run by the Army Corp of Engineers.  The Corp built the Big Bend Dam and manages the camping and boating areas south of the dam.  We saw cormorants and the American White Pelican catching more fish than the fishermen.

Sorry to leave you hanging, but we lost WiFi when we left Iowa Interstate Rest Areas.  So this posting is post-dated.

From Omaha, we recrossed the Missouri River and traveled north along the east side.  We stopped at Lewis and Clark State Park near Onawa, Iowa to see full-scale reproductions of the pirogues and the keelboat used by the expedition.  One pirogue and the keelboat were docked on a lake formed by an oxbow of the Missouri.  How the boats were pulled upstream boggles the mind.  We climbed aboard but no one else was there to volunteer to pull us away from shore.  So we travelled on.  Our route closely followed the river so we had great views of the bluffs.

We stopped at the Blackbird Scenic Overlook named after a powerful Omaha chief who died 4 years before Lewis & Clark passed through the area.  There was a really neat open building with cultural information about life amoug the Omaha.  And the vista was grand.  Near the overlook, L&C and 10 men climbed the bluff to visit Blackbird’s grave.  Blackbird died of smallpox along with 100s of his people. 

We crossed the Missouri at Sioux City, Iowa and went along the river on the west side north to Ponca State Park.  The only member of the expedition to die was buried in Sioux City.  The thought is he died of a ruptured appendix. 

You gotta see Ponca State Park to believe it!!!  It overlooks the downstream end of a relatively 59 mile untamed stretch of the Missouri.  The park is very large, heavily wooded, with an outstanding interpretive center that focused on the ecology and history of the Missouri.  The exhibits were great.  We didn’t hike any of the 20 miles of trails, or go horsebackriding, or swim, or golf.  But we really enjoyed the overnight stay!!

The boondocking adventure went well!  Met some really nice travelers.  Slept really good. 

One of the stops for fuel was at a Kum and Go—no comment.  Premium gas was 10 cents cheaper than regular.  We learned that because the premium used 10% ethanol (corn, corn, corn) the state tax on premium makes the price cheaper.  OK by me.

Our driving pace is steady with occasional breaks to walk Cutie Pie (Tom’s dog) and catch a little relief from various pressures.

Camped in N.P. Dodge City Park north of Omaha.  Unhitched and went to Omaha.  Found the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center (in the Department of the Interior building) with great difficulty–but it was worth it!! Lots of free materials, two great interpreters shared stories and gave up tips to travel by.  A huge area of old warehouses downtown have been partially renovated with small speciality shops.  Ate a sinful concoction in a little coffee shop.

The weather turned really nasty about 6 pm back at camp.  The Weather Service posted a Tornado warning, high winds, heavy rain perhaps with hail.  Tom notified some of the other campers about the weather report.  With the sky turning a sickly greenish color, and heavy wind and rain,  Tom and I went to the safest place we could find–the men’s john.  Shortly afterwards we heard sirens with the radio advising to seek shelter.  We did not experience any ill effects from the torrential rain and winds.  A few limbs fell but not on any of the tents or campers.  It was, however, my first evening spent in the men’s toilet.  Three other campers joined us as well.

Tomorrow we head back across the river to Council Bluffs, Iowa and then north.

Made it to Tom’s (my caravan partner) on Saturday late in the afternoon.  Tom had a place to park my rig overnite then we went to dinner and back to his house.  Watched National Geographic DVD on Lewis and Clark and got much more out of it this time.  Looking forward to some of the key sites.

On the road at 7am.  Lots of rainy spots, some really heavy.  We are currently in an Iowa rest area that has free wireless internet access!!!  So, this is my first attempt at wireless.  Didn’t even notice the laptop had wireless built in.  We’re planning on going as far as Council Bluffs, Iowa–about 450 miles for today.  We’ll set up camp and visit some of the sights tomorrow.  Then on to Omaha, Nebraska.

LOTS of corn and soybeans.  Wide open spaces mainly used for agriculture.  So far, so good.

Amendment (26 Aug).   It rained so hard as we passed through Indiana, Illinois and Iowa that we stopped at a Wal Mart in Des Moines, Iowa to “boondock”.  In other words we parked in a Wal Mart parking lot for free.   

In the previous edition of Day One I said we were going to try to get to Council Bluffs, Iowa where Lewis and Clark had a major confrontation with Indians.  Shows you how much I know.  There was a serious confrontation with Indians, but it took place later in the expedition on a bluff where Lewis called a council meetings of several Indian leaders.  

It’s Friday night and the Navigator is hooked up to the trailer.  Am I ready?  Not quite.  Am I going?  You bet!  Thanks to everyone who has wished me well.  I hope I can add you to my trip if only by my blog.  More to do, so I better get at it.  Wil