travel blog

We’ve spent 4 full days at Lucerne CA enjoying the new friendships with Tom’s sister Barbara and partner Rosa, wonderful view and really grand communities that are found around Clear Lake.  Some of the events included (but not limited to)

A great sailboat ride on a 27 foot sailboat owned by Barbara’s friend Michael, a treat himself.  The day was windy and we really sped across the lake.  Tom has had considerable experience and took the tiler on the way home but Barbara, a novice, took the tiler outward bound and did a really great job.  We did have some exciting moments but the sail was a real highlight of the visit.

I visited the local museum in Lakeport.  An interesting presentation of varied themes.  The local native Americans were, and still are, master basketmakers.  The museum collection was very extensive.  But what I liked most was the depiction of the culture.  Other presentations included a large gun collection and the relationship to sport hunting (and fishing), maintaining law and order with a collection of handcuffs and leg-irons.  At one time there was a piano factory.  Local museums provide much information and add a perspective that you cannot get from just driving through an area.  

Also went to a thrift store—never know what treasures you can find. Tom and I attended a BBQ dinner sponsored by the Son’s of Italy and stayed a while talking to attendees

I would like to return someday.

Picture trees so tall you cannot see the sky looking straight up, so wide that three people cannot get their arms around them, so old you are unable to trace your lineage that far back in time.

We started out on hwy 101 then switched to hwy 1 which runs VERY close (in spots) to the coastline.  More sandy beaches than in Oregon, but the ocean edge is still very rocky.  Bright sunlight, few clouds and mild temperatures–just perfect travelling weather.

In a short while we took a scenic route on the Avenue of the Giants.  For much of the morning and into the afternoon we travelled a narrow, twisting road carved out of the dense Redwood forests of Northern California.  Thanks to early conservation efforts, these woods still stand for all to journey through and enjoy.  The road winds up and down continuously, turns right and left around steep edges of either high rock walls or next to sharp dropoffs.  Actually, it was quite thrilling.  Lunch was enjoyed in a turnoff looking at and breathing in the forest around us.  We made a few stops to walk on paths into the woods.  In one place a huge tree had fallen, the trunk at least 10-12 feet in diameter.  Surrounding the fallen tree were many towering Redwoods as if standing guard over a fallen comrade.

Toward late afternoon we moved farther east to a large inland volcanic lake, Clearwater Lake.  On the northern shore Tom’s sister Barbara lives with her partner on a hillside with a million dollar view (probably literally).   The property actually has two houses, a studio, real grass (not seen very often) lawn and a wonderful sense of welcome for us travelers.  All three rigs could be accomodated so we will spend a few days with new friends.

We left Siskiyou campground pretty early and headed to California.  Just over the border we went to the Salmon River RV Park to pick up the third member of our caravan, Nita.  We had to apologise for taking an extra day or two in Oregon, but what is the trip for otherwise?

 I wanted to mention that at one of our turnout stops for lunch, I did a little “jig” getting back to my rig.  Two bikers passing by commented they’d like to see me do the jig again, so I did.  See, Maureen, I’m dancing.

The trip from Salmon River RV Park to Eureka on hyw 101 showed a lot of beautiful coastline.  New types of vegetation including wild anise, and eucalyptus.   California has NADA in the way of visitor center information.  We had to go to the Fisheries and Wildlife to get a map and it only covered half of California.  Thanks to AAA, I already had a map and we stopped for two more from AAA in Eureka.  Gas prices went up 40 cents per gallon in California as well.  On the recommendation of the Fisheries lady, we boondocked at a small park on the north jetty of the channel from the Pacific to Eureka.  The jetty was on the south side of a peninsula of dunes to the coast.  I walked from the jetty to the coast which was quite farther than I thought.  But I really enjoyed being the only person as far as I could see on the sand.

The campground is situated on the bluff overlooking the Rogue River (in fact, we passed the site on the jet boat). It has a nice black-topped ramp for fishermen to use down to a wide gravel beach. I forgot to mention that on our boat ride, the first part of the river was classified recreational, the second part for white-water, and beyond that boats were not allowed–none of the river is classified for commercial fishing. The campground is mainly used by fishermen. There is a good sized block building with 3 sinks for cleaning fish. Mostly the fishermen were fishing for fall salmon.

On Saturday (the 22nd) we went into Gold Beach and wandered a huge secondhand bookstore–probably the nicest I had ever been in. It also contained a coffee shop (of course) and had a gentleman playing the piano. We also visited a myrtlewood shop but most of the wares were too pricy.

The campsites are nestled in a very large myrtlewood grove. There are very few bugs as the myrtlewood leaves give off a scent that drives bugs away but the smell is very faint and nice.  We picked wild blackberries and Tom made a blackberry brown betty cobler.  Yum, yum.

On Sunday we stayed home, read books, walked around, fed apples to several groups of deer,  watched a large flock of wild turkeys walk around.  I went down to the edge of the river and layed out on the warmed, rounded rocks watching the fishermen, then just birds and clouds.  At peace.

Ohh my gosh, what a ride!!  We went 104 miles (52 upstream, 52 downstream) until we came to rapids too rough to travel by jet boat.  Our pilot was really talented.  Saw bald eagles literally overhead criss-crossing the river near their nest.  Lots of other birds as well.  But the real story was the ride!!  We did spins, we narrowly missed BIG rocks (at least it seemed that way) and we had a HE__ of a good time.  Stopped about 30 miles upstream for lunch at Agness, a VERY small community.  In the dining area were signed pictures of Ted Williams with Bobby Guerr (sp) a second baseman, hall of famer who played with Williams for the Red Socks and who lives just a few miles from Agness.  Zane Gray lived in the same area and wrote many of his books here.  Many tourists travel to the area to float the rapids.  We were in class 3 rapids and had to stop where class 4 begins.

 We got back to the RV camp about 3:30, hooked up and went upriver about 15 miles to the Siskiyou campground—where we found a bit of paradise.  Before we settled in for the night 4 black-tailed deer casually toured our rigs for hand outs.

We started off by going back to Charleston, a small working fishing community.  Unlike other coastal stops, Charleston has little amenities for tourists.  The few stores along the highway mainly cater to locals.  We walked along the docks looking at the fishing boats.  One fisherman was filleting fish, dumping the waste into the harbor.  Lots of gulls were in attendance.  Better yet were the harbor seals!!  We saw 5 different ones swimming along the dock until they reached the area where the fisherman was.  I think this stop was oone of the best in terms of looking back in time.  Most commercial fishing is gone.  A few places like Charleston still can fish.  You can even take your catch to the small cannery and have it processed.

Continuing south, we came to Gold Beach and decided to spend some $$ and take a jet boat ride up the Rogue River tomorrow.  So we camped at an RV park only 1/2 mile from the dock so we didn’t have to drive very far to make the 7:30 am departure.  The RV park was very nice, laundry facilities included, so we caught up on some housekeeping chores.  We also “scouted” for another campground for tomorrow in the Siskiyou National Park.

Don’t worry, I haven’t forgotten you!  We’ve been out of touch.  In other words, no internet access.

We stopped at several turnouts to take pictures, walk the dog (Cutie Pie), ooh and ahh, and enjoy the coastline.  We looked for whales, but didn’t see any.  I suppose if I look for whales in St. Joe I wouldn’t see any there either.  South of Yachats, a relatively small village at the mouth of the Yachts River, we stopped to see the Devils Churn, a fissure in the basalt rock on the coast that has super wave action.  This area is part of Cape Perpetua Scenic Area, part of the vast (2700 acre) Siuslaw National Forest.  Even at the Devils Churn there was a small shop to get fresh coffee.  Oregon is the coffee state!!

We viewed Heceta Lighthouse from a viewpoint turnoff.  I love the lighthouses along the coast!  We visited Sea Lion Caves about 10 miles north of Florence.  This attraction has been here for a long time.  There is an elevator to the sea cave about 20 stories below the road.  The sea cave itself is the largest in the world (or so the advertisement states) but only one Steller seal lion was in the cave.  Who cares?  It was worth the price of admission!

On to Coos Bay where we found a great library to send the last batch of listings.  Made a visit to Wal*Mart (can’t pass one by), passed through Charleston on the way to Sunset Bay SP.  Only 3 camping sites available and boy did I have a job backing into mine!!!

Have I mentioned a group of about 30 bikers (bicycle bikers) going from Seattle to San Francisco?  We keep running into them (not literally) from time to time.  Well, several camped at Sunset Bay the same time we did.

Ho Hum, more of the same. Waves crashing on the beaches, towering pines, steep climbs and sharp turns edged by a solid border of shrubs, flowers and trees. The sights have been fabulous and neverending (or so it seems).

We stopped to see the Yaquina Lighthouse and Interpretive Center run by the US Forest Service. The Interpretive Center was really great. It covered the geologic history that formed the Oregon coast, the flora and fauna that inhabit the coast today, and a historic overview of the impact on the land by man. Whereas Native tribes revered the land and used it without major changes in the fauna or flora, the white man has brought dramatic changes. Hardest for me to see is the large areas of clear cut logging, often “hidden” by a few feet of uncut trees along the road. The Interpretive Center is at the base of an old quarry. The rocks quarried there was used to develop hwy 101 along the coast.

The Yaquina Lighthouse was open to visitors and Tom climbed to the top. I took a walk down to the beach to see tidal pools. The beach is covered by basaltic rocks rounded by wave action over centuries. The rock sizes vary, most softball sized and smaller. To get to the tidal pools, you have to walk over the rocks at a steep incline. I got no style points for my descent, although it was pretty fast. No serious injuries. And I did see some anemones in the pool I almost made a dive into.

We stayed the night at Tillicum Beach National Forest Campgound (1/2 price, thanks to Golden Age Passport). Again, no electricity, showers or hookup for water, but what a beautiful place!!! The campsites were sheltered by tall shrubs and pines on a small bluff that led to the beach below. We sat on a picnic table to watch the sunset. Yes, I have been taking pictures. Hope they come out ok.

This entry is port-dated (as have been most of them!) from Coos Bay Library.  Finding WiFi at libraries has been our most successful source.  Although I updated previous blogs on 17 Sep from Tillamac Cheese Factory while on the road to Lookout Cape State Park.

Ok, so I’m still getting used to my new truck.  I looked in the owner’s manual and found a reference for the 3/4 ton Silverado gas capacity–34 gallon tank.  BUT I failed to differentiate between the crew cab model and the extended cab model (mine).  I thought the “miles to empty” message was reading incorrectly.  So, guess what, I ran out of gas (first time ever).  As I coasted to a stop (still partially on hwy 101) I found myself directly across from a gas station!!  So, I got out of the truck, took the 1.5 gallon gas can from the back, put it into the gas line, got back in the truck and drove across the road.  Next gas stop, you ask?  About 20 miles ahead!! 

We stopped in Tillamac to visit the famous cheese factory there.  The parking lot was loaded, the cheese is supurb and the ice cream wonderful.  Worth the wait!!

We camped overnight at Lookout Cape State Park, just a small dune from a beach that stretched forever (well, not quite).  Earlier we toured Lookout Cape lighthouse.   There are many lighthouses along the Oregon Coast as it is very rocky and entry into bays are often narrow cuts through rock.  The State Park didn’t have electricity or water hookup but walking along the beach for a mile or so without throngs of people was great.  I was lulled to sleep by the sound of the waves.

P.S.  My gas tank holds 26 gallons.

We decided to stay until Monday.  This park is just beautiful, even if it is rainy.  In the late morning we visited Ft. Stevens.  Originally the fort was built under the orders of Abraham Lincoln as a strategy to block the British in the event they sided with the Confederacy.  It remained active through World War II and is the site of the only bombing by the Japanese on continental soil.  We took a lorry ride, wooden seats and all, around Fort Stevens in a light rain.  Only concrete foundations exist where barracks, officers quarters, firehouse, hospital, laundry, bakery, etc. were.  After being shut down, the people of the surrounding areas were allowed to use the wood as housing materials.  The gun bunkers are still there as are other facilities.  The tour was quite interesting.  Afterwards, we drove out to the beach and viewed what little is left of a 1906 shipwreck.  Ft. Stevens State Park offers horse campouts.  It was really neat to see riders in the mist on the sandy beach.  Returning to our campsite, Tom proceeded to replace the water valve with the one he got at Camper’s World.  Guess what!!  The valve wasn’t the problem!  Some little thing in his hose connection was.  The good news is he can replace the water valve successfully if he has to.  The bad news is he could have saved $40.

I took a long nap.  Many campers left so we had our part of the camp to ourselves.  We leave St. Stevens State Park tomorrow.