Friday, October 19, 2007

Day 61 Gallup to Santa Rosa, New Mexico 18 Oct

I can’t believe it.  I have actually caught up in posting travels on my blog.  I apologise for the hit-and-miss method of keeping you informed.  I know on my next trip I will try and have better access to the internet!
So, what did we do today?  After the frost melted from the car we left USA RV Park.  Boy, you should see all the Indian shops in Gallup.  It’s hard to know what is legit and what isn’t.  In any case, all we got was gas.
Because Route 66 in New Mexico has been maintained so well, we stayed on it most of the day. 
We stopped in Grants, New Mexico to see a mine exhibit under the Chamber of Commerce building.  What a cool self-tour!  There was an upstairs exhibit that gave a lot of information about mining in New Mexico, especially Uranium mining.  That exhibit led to an elevator that looked like one miners might take within a mine.  We descended one floor to an underground mock-up of what a real mine would look like.  What was really cool was there were several different areas and at each area the voice of a real miner spoke about his job in that area.  Altogether there must have been 10 or so different areas.  They actually built the “mine” first then built the Chamber of Commerce building on top of it.  In the meantime, another issue had been developing over several days.
Since Needles, Tom’s steps to his trailer have been possessed.  They should open and close automatically whenever the door to the back of the motorhome is opened.  Or, Tom can rig it so it stays open when he is camping.  The steps began to behave oddly just before we got to Needles (remember the wheel bearing episode?) by not closing immediately when the door was shut or the motorhome engine was started.  It usually did close, but sometimes after opening and closing a few times.  Tom had the same people who fixed my wheel bearing to fix the steps and we thought they were ok.  And, for the most part, they were.  Until 2 days ago or so.  Today they went berserk.  Fortunately, we saw an advertisement for Camping World near Albuquerque.  By this time the steps weren’t closing at all and Tom had to pay close attention to whatever was on the passenger roadside.  When we took the exit for Camping World, the dam_ steps began to move open and closed over and over again.  By this time, Tom was fully exasperated.  And, Camping World service people couldn’t schedule him until Monday.  So, what to do.  Tom disconnected the electrical stuff to/from the steps and tied them closed.  There!  He bought a portable step to use getting in and out.  And hopes to have the steps fixed right when he gets home!
I think to take the edge off everything and because it was beginning to get late in the day, we took I40 as far as Santa Rosa and parked again in a nice RV park.  I’m going to use my heater tonight!  The weather channel has been talking about bad weather in Chicago/Southern Michigan/Indiana/Ohio Valley etc etc.  Hope all are well at home.  While watching the weather channel in the RV restaurant we saw a “blip” on the Petrified Forest including the ranger I had talked with yesterday.  What a small world.
Posted by Wil at 04:23:39 | Permalink | Comments (1) »

Day 60 Winslow, Ariz to Gallup, New Mexico 17 Oct

Up and gone early.  We drove most of the day on I40.  Little of Route 66 exists east of Winslow in Arizona.  We stopped at two really cool places.  First was Meteor Crater.  Remember Starman?  The spaceship drops into Meteor Crater outside Winslow to pick up Jeff Bridges, the Starman.  The crater for formed some 50,000 years ago when a meteor slammed into the earth.  It is now though that most of the meteor ended up vaporized and became part of the microscopic mineral structure found at the crater basin.  Meteor Crater is owned and operated by a private organization.  But the visitor center and exhibits are first class!!  From 1964 to 1972 the US Geological Survey and NASA provided extensive training for the Apollo astronauts.  The crater was formed in a process similar to the many craters on the moon.  We took in the short movie, looked at the exhibits and then went outside and walked a short way to the rim.  We might have taken a longer rim walk but the WIND was truly FIERCE!  The wind had been increasing it velocity all morning but at Meteor Crater it was tough to stand still and upright.
A little further east and not far from I40 is the Petrified Forest National Park.  Did we go to the park?  You bet!
On the way to the park we stopped at company that specializes in petrified wood products.  There was also a large display of other rock products (as well as tourist stuff).  Most was for sale.  Some of the petrified wood tables, columns and pieces ran into the $1000s.  So I filled my truck and on we went.  No, not really, just kidding.
We then continued on to the Petrified Forest National Park that also includes the Painter Desert.  We started at the Visitor Center and then went to the Xantera-operated Gift Shop.  We took a self-guided tour that included some trail walking at several points of interest.  But the WIND was still a major factor.  By the time we left I felt parched and wind-burned as well as wind-blown.  So what!!  The Park is a thing of beauty.  I know I keep saying that, but each National Park we have visited has its own unique characteristics and beauty.  They have all been places of awe and wonder.  We are so lucky that they are being managed, to the degree possible, so that others may experience what they have to offer.  Within Petrified Forest National Park are remnants of Plebloan people that occupied the area between AD 1250 and 1400.  Several petroglyphs were easily seen on the rocks in that location.
From the Petrified Forest we hopped back on I40 and headed east.  Once into New Mexico we switched to Route 66 which, surprise surprise, is well-maintained in New Mexico.  Although most of the stores, motels and buildings that once serviced travelers are gone, it was really nice to get off the interstate highway and proceed at a good pace and really get to enjoy the changes in the landscape as we went along.  And NO semi-trucks blasting by.  We finally stopped in Gallup, New Mexico and stayed overnight at USA RV Park.  Advertisements suggested a strong sense of patriotism.  It was one of the best layed out and cleanest parks we have been in.  And we had electricity, water, WiFi, bathrooms with showers!  Joy oh joy.
I did stabilize the trailer by dropping the front and back support because of the….yep, you guessed it…the wind.  (Normally I don’t put down the supports unless we are going to use the truck and I need to unhook from the trailer.)
Posted by Wil at 03:53:30 | Permalink | Comments (1) »

Day 59 Grand Canyon NP to Winslow Wal*Mart, Ariz 15 Oct

Just about ready to head out and Tom called me over to the road behind my trailer.  Just across the road (like maybe 8 feet) was a large stag mule deer browsing on shrubs and trees.  I tiptoed back to the truck, got my camera and–guess what?  He was still browsing!!  Sure hope those pictures turn out.  A few feet behind this stag was another one deeper in the brush.  After a few minutes both deer moved out of view.  And we left too.
Tom had to stop to have propane put into his motorhome.  It doesn’t come in cylinders like mine do.  The only place nearby was about 15 miles south of Grand Canyon NP at a Jellystone Park (I think that is what it was called).  The campground had Barney’s Store and Wilma’s Laundry.  Another building was chocked full of Flintstone stuff in Fred’s Store and Cafe.  After searching, I told the cashier I was disappointed I couldn’t find any item with the name “Wilma”.  She said they don’t sell so the manufacturer doesn’t make them.  I said I would buy because my name is Wilma.  She got all excited and said she had never met a Wilma before and they always make her play Wilma in the campground skits!
We took a southeast road to I 40.  The drive was really nice–some mountains, some plains with limited vegetation.  All in all quite a relaxing ride–until a coyote crossed right in front of Tom’s rig.  So far that’s the only coyote we’ve seen and I only saw its tail.  We got off I40 at Winslow, Arizona.  The Eagles wrote a song called “Take it Easy” and the lyrics include “Standin’ on the corner in Winslow Arizona…”  Well, the Eagles donated some $$ so Winslow could erect a bronze statue of a man “Standin’ on the Corner”.  Naturally we took pictures.  We also went into a small museum and the lady there told us about La Posada Hotel, a refurbished Harvey House Hotel at the railroad depot.  So we went to browse around.  We found out that this hotel and the one in Needles, CA were designed by Mary Calder, a noted architect in the 20s and 30s who designed many hotels and other buildings for Harvey House.  We saw several examples at the Grand Canyon.  La Posada had many works of art and has been almost completly restored.
We finally settled down at the local Wal*Mart.  Sound familiar?  As in Grand Canyon, the temperature really dropped after sundown.
Posted by Wil at 03:17:18 | Permalink | Comments (1) »

Thursday, October 18, 2007

Day 58 Grand Canyon National Park 14 Oct

Up and about relatively early.  Sunrise is getting much later–6:30 am or so.  The nighttime temperature is getting much colder–21 degrees according to the Visitor Center.  We took the blue line shuttle to Canyon View Information Plaza.  This is the only facility run by the National Park Service.  This facility offers stuff as well but the proceeds go directly to park improvement.  We browsed awhile then headed over the Village Route to Hermits Rest Route.  At the transfer between the blue line shuttle to the red line shuttle we began a walk on the rim trail.  We walked about 2 miles or so and skirted the edge of the canyon.  No words can describe the beauty of this vast expanse.  The sky was clear, sunny and about 60 degrees with a moderate wind.  Perfect for walking and viewing.  We saw two mule deer stags just off the trail.  AND a California condor soaring high overhead!  The condors have been successfully reintroduced into the wild.  The ravens look small in comparison.
We returned by red line shuttle to Hermits Rest Transfer station then walked along the rim through the developed area that includes many of the lodges, original buildings and shops.  Kolb studio has a stunning view with an enclosed porch perched over the ledge.  Many of the buildings were designed by Mary Calder, a noted architect of the times.  Rather than infuse a European theme, she incorporated many native designs into her buildings.  The Glacier chalets “fit” only in the sense of being in mountains.  The lodges and many outbuildings of Mary Calder fit in a truer sense and blend with the surrounding environment.  By the time we got back to camp we were pretty bushed.  It is so nice to share the experiences first hand with someone who is also interested and curious about new vistas.
I should mention that thoughout our trip, but especially in the Grand Canyon Park, we have been surrounded by people of many nationalities.  There is an abundance of RVs rented with a “travel America” theme on the roads and in the parks.  We had been told that many foreigners wait until after American school begin to travel in the US.  We meet as many, if not more, international tourists in some places than American.
Posted by Wil at 15:21:29 | Permalink | Comments (1) »

Day 57 Kingman to Grand Canyon Nat. Park 14 Oct

If you haven’t been to a National Park lately, be aware that all concessions and most operations are run by Xantera, an outsourced business.  The Parks have become very business-like.  The up side is that the organization is very good and many more visitors can be accommodated.  The down side is that I felt like a member of a large group of people being managed with herd-like mentality.  But the wonders of the National Parks I have seen so far outweigh any negatives.
We took I40 to US64 then north to Grand Canyon Nat. Park Arizona.  The entrance fee was waived because of the Golden Age Passport ($25).  One of the campgrounds is managed by the Park Service (Mather campground), so we registered there and got another discount for being seniors.  Other campgrounds are managed by Xantera.  Of course there were no hookups.  Bathrooms were pretty closeby.  There was a large laundry and shower facility available for a fee and managed by Xantera.  We set up camp then drove to the Market Plaza where we took a shuttle (very similar to Glacier National Park) to various locations on the South Rim.  We didn’t stop a look but will tomorrow.
I met some people from Holland camped nearly.  They had seen some wildlife and were trying to find out what to call them.  One person spoke English fairly well.  They had seen a male mule deer with a good-sized antler rack brousing in the junipers.  We also saw a dwarf nuthatch.  And a bunch of ravens.  Once you’ve seen a raven you’ll never confuse it with a crow.
The campground was well forested with large rocks throughout.  It does get dark FAST when the sun goes down.
Posted by Wil at 04:19:27 | Permalink | Comments (1) »

Day 56 Lake Mead Nat. Rec. Campground, Nev to Kingman, Ariz 13 Oct

I liked the coyote calls at daybreak.  We left fairly early and crossed the Hoover Dam to Arizona.  We drove about 80 miles to Kingman, Arizona then went west on Route 66 to Oatman, Ariz.  The drive to Kingman was pleasing.  Not much in the way of “civilization”.  In fact, for the past few days other than being in Boulder City, there has been mainly the beauty of nature to view and enjoy.  Driving to Oatman was a trip!!  I can’t imagine what it must have been like in the 30s and 40s before major highways were built.  The terrain was rugged, lots of switchbacks, very rocky, with sharp changes in elevation.  It was fun!!!  Of course, we didn’t have any mishaps either.  Oatman is quite a town.  At one time there were several mines active in the area.  As the mining efforts failed, many burros were either left or wandered off away from the prospectors.  Today, the wild burros flock to Oatman to get handouts.  The major enterprise in Oatman is tourism–selling stuff.  I did buy a necklace made by Yellowhammer, an honest to god native American.  Most of the “Indian” things sold in Oatman are not made in America.  Lots of bikers (this time I mean motorcycle riders) come to Oatman.  For the ride for one thing.  And for “leathers”.  Several shops cater to bikers.  Tom and I thoroughly enjoyed Oatman.  By the time we got back to Kingman it was getting late.  So we decided to boondock at Wal*Mart.  But were told that we’d have to be gone by midnight.  So we went a block or two, found a sandlot behind a Walgreens and spent the night.  PS the nights are getting downright COLD.
Posted by Wil at 04:00:49 | Permalink | Comments (1) »

Day 55 Lake Mead National Recreation Campground, Nev 12 Oct

I had been to Hoover Dam before.  But what a change!!  Corky and I went when we took David to Las Vegas as a graduation present.  I remember a small parking lot, a little building where they show us a film, waiting in line in the HOT sun on the dam next to the road that crosses it to get our tickets.  That’s not how it was today.
As you get near the dam you can see the new highway and bridge that is being built so that traffic from Nevada to/from Arizona will no longer go over the dam.  Also, there is a Homeland Security checkpoint on the Nevada side just as you get close to the dam.  (The Nevada checkpoint is some distance from the dam.)  There must be more traffic (mostly tourists) from Nevada as they have built a multistory parking garage on the Nevada side.  What I remember as a parking lot is now a museum and a restaurant (with gifts, of course).  To my surprise RVs and trucks were passing over the dam so some of the 9/11 security has been eased.  I was asked to pull over for an inspection so they could see what was in the truck bed (it is covered).  Most of the additions were completed in 1995. 
We drove over the dam and parked above the dam on the Arizona side.  Then walked to the Visitor’s Center (across from the parking garage on the Nevada side) to buy our tickets.  The first part of the tour is a movie.  Ticket holders are allowed in on a capacity basis.  As we entered the auditorium, another group departed.  After the movie, we left the auditorium and the group was divided into two smaller groups.  Each smaller group filled a very large elevator.  We rejoined the other half of our group after descending about 60 stories.  The tour showing parts of the generating facilities was not as thorough as I remembered.  But all questions were answered by our guide and there was a feeling of openness.  All in all, it was a great day.  Seeing the dam and learning a little of what it took to build it is overwhelming.
Went back to Boulder City for a little more tourist stuff including using the library which was the best we had been to so far.
Posted by Wil at 02:09:44 | Permalink | Comments (1) »

Day 54 Needles, CA to Boulder City, Nev 11 Oct

Being that the last 24 hours were a little stressful (burned wheel bearing in the middle of the Mohave Desert), last night was a real nice break.  I especially liked the hot tub!!
We left Needles and went north about ninety miles to Boulder City, arriving in the early afternoon.  Set up camp at Lake Mead National Recreational Campground for $5/night (thanks to the Golden Age Passport) but no hookups.  The site was really very beautiful.  Close to Lake Mead (almost right on it except for the sharp decline to the water.  Spent the afternoon in Boulder City visiting the museum and other tourist spots.  The museum was small but had a 20 minute movie on constructing Boulder Dam (oops, Hoover Dam).
President Roosevelt named it Boulder Dam (he being a Democrat and all).  Later Truman and Congress renamed it Hoover Dam as President Hoover signed the legislation authorizing building the dam and providing jobs for thousands in the early Depression years.  Part of the deal in building the dam was to build a city near the dam–thus Boulder City was born.  I really liked Boulder City.  Tomorrow, Hoover Dam!!
Posted by Wil at 01:49:32 | Permalink | Comments (1) »

Day 53 Chambless to Needles, CA 10 Oct

I was awake off and on throughout the night.  You could hear coyotes yipping across the desert.  Finally, at 5 am I called AAA (it was 8 am in Michigan).  I got lucky.  I had double paid my dues and they had sent back the second payment.  The AAA person allowed that payment attempt as an upgrade to include road service for the trailer (a little detail I had thought of but forgot to do before I left home).  Therefore, we didn’t have to wait 72 hours for the upgrade to take effect.  The Michigan lady transferred me to a California lady who didn’t know where Needles was (she was in San Diego) and transferred me to a lady who covers northern California.  That lady retransferred me to someone who knows Needles is in southeastern California.  Within minutes the wrecker was dispatched.  Needles is about an hour away from where we were (Barstow almost 2 hours).  Surprise!!  The wrecker guy got there in 20 minutes because he had just completed a job on I40 and was nearly.  So off to Needles.  The fixit place had a connection to the wrecker guy (a little bothersome at first) but again I got lucky.  They were able to get all the parts I needed right in Needles (I took the last of two items that were essential) without sending to Phoenix.  I guess the unlucky part was paying $90/hr labor.  Tom and I “did” Needles (not much to do really) while the trailer got fixed.  The town doesn’t have much to offer.  At one time it was a major stopover on the Sante Fe railroad.  We looked at the reconstruction project of a former Harvey House.  Tom gets off on building projects and he had a long talk with the project engineer.  Afterwords we went to an Indian Casino.  I lost $10 really quick.  Then the tribal police called for the owner of my Silverado.  We had left Tom’s dog Cutie in the truck with the windows down.  We were in the Casino less than 15 minutes.  It is against the law to leave a pet in a vehicle unattended.  Wonder if the law holds for children. 
We were back in business late so we stayed at a trailer park that was really nice.  Hot tub and swimming pool, hookups (electric and water, no WiFi), hot showers (!) and laundry.  Heaven.
Posted by Wil at 01:16:52 | Permalink | Comments (1) »

Day 52 Camp Pendleton to Chambless, CA Oct 9

Brent came to say goodbye before we packed up and left Camp Pendleton. We headed northeast toward Barstow and the beginning (for us) of coming home on Route 66, the Mother Road. We left a little later than usual hoping to avoid commuter traffic. If traffic was less than early hour commuting we didn’t notice the difference!! In many locations even though we were on an interstate highway, the road edge did not have a barrier. At one point I noticed a helicopter circling much like turkey vultures. We passed by at least 2 vehicles that had slid off the highway to the right. One, a truck, was rolled over on a road running parallel and about 30 feet lower than us. I barely caught sight of a car over the edge of the interstate. Back to city driving.
We didn’t find any camping places we wanted to stay at in Barstow so we decided to get on Route 66 and off Interstate 40.  Route 66 started out pretty good but the road soon deteriorated and we had to go pretty slow. Not much to see.  As it turns out, the part of 66 we were on was in the Mohave Desert. Even when Route 66 was a major road, not much was on this stretch.  Just before sunset I noticed black smoke from the back of my trailer. Fortunately, there was a crossroad and plenty of space to pull off. One of my trailer wheels had burned out a bearing. So….what to do in the middle of nowhere? Long story short, I needed to call a AAA department that would open at 8am the next day.  So we boondocked at what had been Chambless, CA. The night was totally clear. I saw more stars than I had ever seen before.

Posted by Wil at 01:03:43 | Permalink | Comments (1) »