travel blog

The temperature overnite was cool, but not uncomfortable even without heat. Got up early and walked to Zion Human History Museum (a mile or so from the campground) to catch the shuttle bus to ride Zion Canyon Scenic Drive along the North Fork of the Virgin River. Got off at Court of the Patriarchs (three giant stone formations named after disciples) for camera shots. Then went to the far end and got off at the Temple of Sinawava, a large semi-circular wall of sedimentary sandstone that is divided by a crevice formed by erosion through the rock to form the Virgin River.

From there I walked Riverside Walk (2.0 miles) to the Narrows, a crack where only river walkers can continue on. The canyon along the riverside walk narrows significantly, with the Virgin River. The water that flows through the canyon mainly filters through the sandstone walls themselves. The water has been dated to be from 1000 to 4000 years old in different places. Imagine, if you will, a garden of plants (mostly blooming this time of year) clinging to the canyon walls. I’m not a flower person, but I took lots and lots of pictures. It was so beautiful!! A mule deer with large velvet antlers was feeding on cottonwood leaves just off the Walk. (Took a picture of him too.)

After getting on the shuttle to return to camp, I stopped at the History Museum and went inside for enlightenment. Then walked back to camp. I have to admit that I am affected by the altitude and find climbing difficult. It was a GREAT day!
To my walking friends, I exceeded our goal today!!

The temperature dropped to 25 degrees overnight. I had a slight leak where the water hose attached to the trailer, which was a good thing—the hose was intact. The drip and grown into a icy stalagmite. I packed up and drove to the gas station where there was a big bay to wash tour buses. So I pulled into the bay and “washed” the truck and trailer. Didn’t do a real good job but both looked a lot better. Took the road to Mt. Carmel and stopped for lunch. Then straight to Zion. Route 9 crosses through the park east to west. When you enter from the east you have to go through 2 tunnels, one built for much smaller cars in 1929. In order for trailers or motor homes to pass through the second tunnel, all traffic has to be cleared from the tunnel and the trailer or motor home goes through the 1.1 mile tunnel down the center of the road. It was quite an engineering feat to build.

Bryce Canyon and Zion are extremely different in their own ways. Bryce is limited to its very unique canyon formations. The immensity that is Zion is breathtaking. Huge sandstone formations dominate a much larger land area. I was glad that people in Bryce had only told me Zion was different without specifying what made the two parks different. Truly, I was overwhelmed!!! The day warmed up, the sun brought out the colors of the sandstone walls towering almost out of view.

I decided to camp at the South Campground, which does not have electricity or water provided to the sites. So in order to type this blog, I am using my generator (plus charging one of my camera batteries). To see the park, you must take a shuttle bus. They run frequently, so it is easy to get on or off at various stops into Zion Canyon. I did a little scouting in Springdale, just east of the park. Then crashed.

Started the morning early with a ½ day horseback ride through a canyon that runs parallel to Red Canyon. The biggest challenge was getting up into the saddle. My hips and knees are not very flexible but, with help, I made it. Thirteen people joined the ride. Fortunately, I dressed appropriately, as it was chilly until the sun came out. This canyon was one that Butch Cassidy hid out in. He is well known in this area.
The trail ride was pretty sedate, accommodating people that seldom, if ever ride. I spent a lot of time dropping the reins while I took picutres.  My horse Target just kept on movin’ along the trail.  I met a neat couple from London, England who also went on the trailride. 

In the afternoon, I went into Bryce Canyon National Park to take pictures. Every turnout was outstanding. Three mule deer crossed in front of me at one point. Came back to the trailer and crashed.

I crossed the Green River shortly after starting out. It was the first sign of significant water since Colorado. Essentially, I was passing through an ancient seabed with lots of sea bottom reefs. Quite an engineering feat to carve an interstate highway through towering rocks that formed solid barriers running north to south. Towns are few and far between. By Salina Utah the scenery changes. Several National Forest ranges run north to south in this area. Not long after Salina I turned south on US 89 that runs between two National Forests. A river runs along the road and there are many places to stop and camp. The area has a strong presence of Piute indians that once roamed this area in large numbers.

I turned onto highway 12 going east and passed into the Red Canyon area of Bryce Canyon. I can’t describe the beauty. The sun brought out the bright red and orange colors of the rock formations, which were stunning. There were two rock arches that I drove through. The area is dominated by sandstone formations with a high iron content that gives the rocks their color. I stopped just outside the entrance to Bryce Canyon at Ruby’s Inn. Ruby’s Inn is unique in that it offers a wide range of accommodations including a large lodge, motor lodge and RV park, tours, gifts, store goods, etc. not controlled by government franchises. And prices are reasonable, the people extremely friendly. It is a local enterprise in an isolated area. In 1916 rueben (Ruby) and Minnie Syrett etablished a ranch near the present site of Ruby’s Inn.  They told their frinds about the beauty of the area and soon firends began to visit.  In 1923 when Bryce Canyon became a National Monument, Ruby moved a visitor’s lodge to the location of this rance and named it Ruby’s Inn.  There is a lodge with facilities in Bryce Canyon National Park run by Xantera, a government concession found in all National Parks. I opted to camp in a large RV camp run by Ruby’s Inn because of the amenities so close at hand

The folks next to me (3 couples, 3 rigs) from Salt Lake City make me welcome to their campfire and conversation.

With much reluctance, I left Dottie, Bruce and Leah and took to the road (I70) about 8 am. Lots of hugs to and from all. If I have time, I’ll catch them again on the return trip.

If you’ve never driven I70 out of Denver to Grand Junction you have missed a wonderful experience (unless it was snowing hard or icy). The mountains are spectacular. The elevation out of Denver is about 5000 feet, the highway climbs to above 10,000 feet several places along the way. Falling rock signs are frequent. A bright blue sky with lots of puffy white clouds formed the background. The area called Glen Canyon was especially beautiful. The deciduous trees are mostly leafed out and bright green. Pines dominate the eastern slopes while a variety of deciduous trees grow on the western slopes. The slopes are formed by massive sedimentary layers uplifted 45 to 60 degrees or so. No wonder there are frequent “watch out for rockslides” signs.

The road makes its way along rock walls that form valleys. Rivers formed by runoff run alongside the highway. The Colorado River emerges on the western side and as the road descended the river became wild, boiling, crashing and rising the further west I went. At one point I saw a man in a kayak spinning in the turbulence. At the lowest point the floodplain was—flooded. You would have had to wade in the water to get to a picnic table at one campground.

Again, the truck performed smoothly and handled the inclines and declines easily. It worked a little harder on a few grades, but from looking at trucks and other vehicles, everyone had some stress and strain.

By Grand Junction the view had changed. It had transformed into high plateaus and mesas. By the time I crossed into Utah, less and less vegetation and fewer signs of water were apparent.

Tonight I camped at the Green River KOA. I’m in an “overflow” area as this is the Memorial Day weekend.  I stopped earlier at two campgrounds and they were booked. The man and woman “in charge” of the KOA offered a contrast in personalities. The woman is a retired police person from the Boston Police department.  I’m not too sure they are suited to managing a campground. My site is nicely groomed sand and gravel without a weed or blade of grass in sight. The air is fresh and brisk. Think I’ll read awhile.