Day 21 — Durango to Black Canyon of the Gunnison N.P., CO
Hitched up and ready to depart Durango by 8 am (not too early, but well rested). The Black Canyon of the Gunnison is another place briefly visited 30 odd years ago with Den, Sue and Jim Rundborg (that’s another story altogether). To get there from Durango as the crow flies (which usually refers to a straight line), I took highway 550 north. If I thought the climb from Durango to Silverton was steep with tight switchbacks, the stretch from Silverton to Ouray over Red Mountain Pass (11,018 ft) is more so (just ask Denny sometime). This stretch of road is called the Million Dollar Highway, the heart of the San Juan Skyway Scenic and Historic Byway. Again, no railing on the outside edge of the road. You can see areas where guns are mounted to blast at the hillside to dislodge snowpacks (and cause a “controlled” avalanche) that have reached a critical mass. Road crews then clear the road. You can also see plaques honoring road crew men who died keeping the road cleared. Cheerful information for a single person driving alone pulling a trailer. Actually, it was a beautiful and exciting drive but it did require considerable concentration.
Going north from Ouray, the Uncompahgre Valley opens wide. Rich valley lands stretch from both sides of the road. This land area produced high competition between various groups. The first to be displaced were the Utes, then ranchers and later fruit farmers. Some ranchers and fruit farmers still are present but more tourism and recreational activities are common. Montrose is the hub within the valley and is a short distance from the South Rim of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, where I camped for the night.
After setting up my trailer, I unhitched and followed the rim trail. The name of the canyon comes from the lack of light admitted into the steep canyon walls. I mean really steep. Various viewing points along the canyon rim give, simply put, spectacular views. The Gunnison River rushes through the narrow canyon at 3000 to 12000 cubic feet per second, pretty incredible. The river noise at the rim was muted by the sharp walls. The entire canyon is 53 miles long and ranges from 1700 to 2700 feet in depth. In one place it is 1300 feet wide at the top and only 40 wide at the bottom. The Park encompasses the most impressive 14 miles of the gorge. By driving to the East Portal, I could drive to the floor of the canyon. The river sounds were very loud due to it echoing off the canyon walls. Ear plugs would help. Here the Gunnison Diversion Project was completed in the early 1900s, which brought water to the Uncompahgre Valley. The lush valley I went through earlier had been a high desert plain before the water diversion. Pays to watch the movies in Visitor Centers!! Between the mountain driving, number of miles traveled, and a little sightseeing, I retired for the day.
Going north from Ouray, the Uncompahgre Valley opens wide. Rich valley lands stretch from both sides of the road. This land area produced high competition between various groups. The first to be displaced were the Utes, then ranchers and later fruit farmers. Some ranchers and fruit farmers still are present but more tourism and recreational activities are common. Montrose is the hub within the valley and is a short distance from the South Rim of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, where I camped for the night.
After setting up my trailer, I unhitched and followed the rim trail. The name of the canyon comes from the lack of light admitted into the steep canyon walls. I mean really steep. Various viewing points along the canyon rim give, simply put, spectacular views. The Gunnison River rushes through the narrow canyon at 3000 to 12000 cubic feet per second, pretty incredible. The river noise at the rim was muted by the sharp walls. The entire canyon is 53 miles long and ranges from 1700 to 2700 feet in depth. In one place it is 1300 feet wide at the top and only 40 wide at the bottom. The Park encompasses the most impressive 14 miles of the gorge. By driving to the East Portal, I could drive to the floor of the canyon. The river sounds were very loud due to it echoing off the canyon walls. Ear plugs would help. Here the Gunnison Diversion Project was completed in the early 1900s, which brought water to the Uncompahgre Valley. The lush valley I went through earlier had been a high desert plain before the water diversion. Pays to watch the movies in Visitor Centers!! Between the mountain driving, number of miles traveled, and a little sightseeing, I retired for the day.
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19:22:06
You still write on here! Thanks
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